Muriatic Acid Quick way to remove heavy rust but I don't like leaving it in there too long 3. The 7x12's have plastic gears, if I'm not mistaken, which makes this a better lathe in my opinion. Presumably that is one of the early ones if it came with the late. Tooling could double that value and I'm often surprised at what old lathes sell for. The top slide could be rotated through 360º and, happily, was T-slotted - so easing the fitment of alternative toolposts to the simple and traditional single holder fitted as standard. The brass wears over time leading to backlash and may need to be replaced.
Continued: During the early 1940s, as industry switched over to war production, several variations on the standard lathe were produced including Craftsman-badged versions built to the better Atlas specification that included instead of plain bearings two different types of roller-bearing headstock: one was a standard Atlas unit with just a badge change and the other a specially-made headstock that resembled with its frontal bulge the shape of the ordinary Craftsman plain-bearing unit. Muriatic acid is hydrocloric acid. By the Craftsman logo design 1st Photo , I knew it was not what he told me, 1946. Here are some of the tests I performed: The tool post was done with Electrolysis and Evapo-Rust: Note: While the results were good, I used up a lot of Evapo-Rust considering the cost and how much more I need to clean up. And it is better to have the belts slip rather than strip all the Zamak gears! There is also a setscrew on the backgear shaft, between the two gears.
The complete tailstock and all parts in it are the same on all four models over the years the paint colors or shades may not have matched. If this manufacturer is not included in the Machine Registry and you would like to serve as a volunteer steward, please Submitting Machines to the Serial Number Registry If you would like to add your machine to the Registry, please. The unused third hole through the lock is for the alignment pin for the not present left back bear bracket. It is on the tail stock end of the ways. That said, I have parted off steel over 1. Why put time and effort into anything? Remember to pile everything else in around it to raise the liquid level.
The Model Number is probably either 101. But Sears didn't start selling them until 1957. The bushing has a setscrew that bears against the spindle, which should be tight. So,if it isn't great or you just have to have it. I notice that someone has installed screws in the lead screw oil holes in the bearing blocks on both ends, probably to keep swarf out. It also had bronze sleeve bearings. The half-nuts on lead screw provide both longitudinal feed and threading.
Should be right in the center. They used to have them up on the web site, but not any more. I can help him out with a chuck and such to start him off and theres a lantern toolpost that came mounted, but I thought if someone had the 2 V belt s I could go to Napa and save some time? Seams an old fellow purchased it but never set it up. Atlas used conical roller bearings on lathes practically forever. This will allow us to link photos of the machine to the Registry as well as give the submitter an opportunity to provide more information about the machine than what is covered in the Registry. The tapped holes for the left bracket are also used to attach the belt tension lock bar or plate.
The bullgear has two setscrews, one on each side. . The seller showed it as 0198 so he means it is 019800 to 019899. There were however similar sized lathes also with the Craftsman badge on it that were not made by Atlas and we're inferior to the Atlas Craftsman. I think they are a bit further off on non-lathe info.
So aside from the color and the missing change gear cover, it looks just like it did when new. That probably means the lathe dates from the 1930's. But there are supposed to be felt wicks or wads of cotten waste to slow it down. Being a cheapskate, I also like the minimal cost. We'll put the old style belts on it as I'm sure he'll make plenty of oops + uhohs and I'd like to see a little slip here and there with those zamac gears! Yes I've see that, glad to have someone like you contributing to this! I wanted the feedscrew to be high enough to interface easily with the bottom of the carriage. You can buy a sleeve for 3C collets, so that if you can find those, you can use them instead. Does anyone know about the atlas history and or web sites on them? Unfortunately no data about Serial Numbers exists - it seems not to have been recorded or saved by either Atlas or Sears on the Craftsman versions of the lathe.
Thank you, Robert There are no back gears. Some of the documentation I have may apply to yours. Then you can remove the halfnut clamping assembly from the carriage and work on it. A phosphoric acid metal prep before painting makes the paint grab the metal. Well I got to spend some quality time with tho old gal this morning and I am happy to report that it is back to 100% functionality.
Screws and small hardware are just getting Evapo-Rust baths for 24 hours or more: So far the following seems to be giving me the best results: 1. Belting is made of urethane elastomer that's reinforced with polyester fabric. The finish after parting was even pretty good! Any part you have that has a casting number starting with 9 came from the lathe I am working on. After leveling it I put it to work. It was donated by a Doctor who used it to make model steam engins and bought it form an old timer that made simeler engins and engins for model air planes The old timer got it new. I don't think I've ever done a 0.
Parts of yours look like mine. I printed the manual last night from Vintagemachinery. It's worth it to remove this and clean out the halfnut threads with a brass brush every now and again. People have been known to shatter the cast iron t-slot flanges by using a hex bolt as a t-bolt and tightening it heavily. The outboard-most component is a collar that sets the headstock bearing tightness.